Man, I had this 99 Honda CR-V and was super confused about the head bolt torque specs. Ended up googling a lot, and it was a mess. Found someone saying to go really tight, but that scared me. Then, a buddy of mine—owns a Honda shop—told me about this gadget to measure torque, said it’s crucial not to mess up.
He did it for me, and I was surprised how easy it was with the right tool. Have you ever wrestled with torque specs? It’s wild, right? Why do they make it so complicated? And if they have a manual, why are the numbers so darn tiny?
Try asking around a shop or look online. That’s what I did. Hope it helps, just don’t overdo it. Overtightening is bad news, trust me.
Back in ‘99, I had a friend in Vancouver, Canada, mess up his cranky ol’ '99 Honda CRV by skipping on those torque specs for the head bolts. Trust me, when you don’t get those right, you’re in for a world of hurt. Always check those specs!
I’ve been wrenching on my '99 CRV here in Ontario for years. Figured out head bolt torque: 23 ft-lbs. Always double-check ‘em. Dropped one time, big ol’ mess. Don’t make my mistake! Tight 'n proper saves the day.
Man, I had to change the head bolts on my '99 Honda CRV last summer in Toronto. Had a bit of a hunt, but eventually found the torque specs: front bolts are 44 ft-lbs and rear are 26 ft-lbs. Always double-check with a manual though—Honda’s got to have that somewhere. Banged on them too tight once, nearly stripped the threads. Learned my lesson, gotta keep it just right!
I’ve been wrenching on my '99 CRV in Alberta for years, and lemme tell ya, getting those head bolts right matters. I always double-check with a manual, 'cause going over or under the torque spec can cause a major headache. You want everything to be just right, y’know?
I had to replace the head bolts on my '99 Honda CRV in Toronto last summer. Went to a local mechanic. He said stick to factory torque specs or the gasket might leak. Pointed me to a Haynes manual for details. Was super helpful!
I got mine replaced in Toronto last year. My mechanic said to go with Honda’s specs, but I’ve heard 75 ft-lbs works. It’s always been fine since. Just make sure not to strip 'em!
I had my head bolts torqued at a shop outta Cali for my '99 CRV. They said 76 ft-lbs in a specific pattern – gotta get it tight but not overdo it. My ride’s purring smooth now, no leaks! Make sure ya follow the specs closely!
Back in Colorado, I had to torque the head bolts on my '99 Honda CRV. Check the manual – it’s crucial to get it right: there’s some specific specs. I’ve seen some guys get it wrong but stick close to OEM recommendations. Pretty important to avoid engine trouble. Stay thorough!
I’ve got a whole thing for torque specs if you know what I mean. Back in ‘08, I was working on my ‘99 Honda CRV in Toronto and nearly borked the head gaskets. My buddy said the front bolts need a specific sequence and torque—didn’t wanna be a dummy, so I double-checked. Turns out, 69 ft-lbs of torque was what kept my ride runnin’ smooth. Yeah, exact numbers matter, or you might hear the purgatory sounds growin’ louder in your engine!
I’ve got a buddy from Ontario who had a 99 CRV, and his shop said the head bolts run about 65 ft-lbs. But I’ve always heard a torque wrench is key to avoid headaches later. Just my two cents, don’t wanna cause any of that mess myself. He swears by it.
I remember fixing my ‘99 Honda CRV back in Ohio. Found the torque specs to head bolts online, nailed it dead-on. My buddy Joe tried guessing it, leaned on wrench like a cowboy, causing more stress than a rodeo bull! Lol, the manual’s a savior if you ask me. Truth is, knowing those specs gives you peace well beyond, so don’t skip that step! Plus, it keeps things smooth-operatin’!
Oh man, just got done swapping the head bolts on my '99 Honda CRV up in Toronto. It’s like a right puzzle without the specs till you stumble upon them. I had a buddy who told me torque it to 63 ft-lbs, but what a rush searching for those numbers! Figured it out eventually though - internet’s my go-to and Honda’s manual’s a life saver. I’ve seen folks really struggle without them. Good luck, folks!
Growing up in Toronto, I remember my cousin struggling with his '99 CRV. He found the torque specs for the head bolts online—they’re really crucial for that VTEC lift-off shake, so make sure you nail those numbers! Don’t wanna hear that dreaded rattle.
Back when I lived in Toronto, I had to jam out on torque specs for my '99 Honda CRV’s head bolts. Always a head-scratcher! Turns out, it’s gotta be 17 ft-lbs in stages. Learned the hard way not to just wing it—never again!
I had this '99 Honda CRV in Toronto and needed the bolt specs for the head. Found a repair manual at a local shop, and it listed the torque specs—tightened them by hand first, gave a solid touch with the ratchet. Makes a world difference in keeping the engine smooth! Wish I’d learned this trick sooner, trust me.
I had to replace the head bolts on my '99 Honda CRV last summer here in Ontario, and man, it was tricky! Ended up digging through forums for the torque specs, which were crucial to get right – it’s like they weren’t even on the manual. It was a real relief when everything finally clicked, and the engine purred smooth. 
Tighten 'em up just right, and you’re golden. That’s what I’ve learned!
Back in '99, living in Ontario, fixing up my '99 Honda CRV’s head bolts was a pain in the boot. I’ve had friends swear by 80 ft-lbs but had issues. Always check the manual, folks!